tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11157774419621945212024-03-13T11:35:45.804-04:00Gabe's HacksI'm cheap. As such I often embark on unorthodox projects that will save me money. These are my adventures.Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-67176531194546789262019-07-09T12:45:00.000-04:002019-07-09T12:45:24.163-04:00Super quiet range hoodThe previous owners of our house did some really weird things. I've noticed a stark contrast between the quality of the original construction and the quality of any renovations done. The range hood was one of those things. It looked like the motor in it wasn't designed for the hood. It was incredibly loud.<br />
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Apart from being loud, it was also useless. It was set up to recirculate air, which does marginally more than nothing. So we never used it.<br />
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In this video I'll show you how I fixed this. Specifically, there are a few weird things going on:<br />
<ol>
<li>I replaced the motor with an inline fan and reused the hood itself.</li>
<li>I vented it outside, which required some creativity since there was a stud directly behind the hood.</li>
</ol>
<div>
<br /></div>
I used a Hon & Guan 6" Inline Duct Fan, which I bought on Amazon.<br />
US: <a href="https://amzn.to/2Jo2eY7">https://amzn.to/2Jo2eY7</a><br />
Canada: <a href="https://amzn.to/2LI3l6d">https://amzn.to/2LI3l6d</a><br />
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I used a laser measure in the video, which I said I'll leave a link to, so here you go:<br />
US: <a href="https://amzn.to/2XxqVK9">https://amzn.to/2XxqVK9</a><br />
Canada: <a href="https://amzn.to/2LJuAgO">https://amzn.to/2LJuAgO</a>
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<br />
And here is the video. Enjoy!
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/P7S6Qo3Cbo8" width="560"></iframe><br />Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-76012635274534291902018-08-29T22:20:00.002-04:002018-08-29T22:38:08.879-04:00DIY Weep Hole Covers - Stop the mice before they get in!It is unfortunately time to start thinking about winter. đ In cold weather, the mice will starting looking for a warm home, meaning they'll be eager to get into your house!<br />
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We had this problem in our house last winter (our first winter in this house). I'm fairly certain that they were getting in through the weep holes in the brick, especially since some of them are right at ground level at the front of the house. So one of the things on my to-do list before the cold weather comes is to block these.<br />
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Plugging them completely is a bad idea. The weep holes need to be there to let out any moisture that may be on the inside of the brick. A wire mesh will allow air flow, but keep rodents and other pests from getting in.<br />
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If you prefer to just buy your own, there's a product called Rid-O-Mice that you can buy on Amazon:<br />
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<a href="https://amzn.to/2PNCiGh">USA</a><br />
<a href="https://amzn.to/2METUGk">Canada</a><br />
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But those can get expensive, depending on how many you need. So I made my own with wire mesh I had in my garage.<br />
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Here is the video of how I did it. At the end of the video I show a surprise pest that got caught in the mesh the very next day!<br />
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If you end up doing this yourself, you will need wire mesh, or sometimes called "hardware cloth". This you can find at a local hardware store, or even on Amazon:<br />
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<a href="https://amzn.to/2BZw57h">USA</a><br />
<a href="https://amzn.to/2PMJAKu">Canada</a><br />
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Wherever you get it, make sure the openings in the mesh are no more than 1/4".<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/i_ETo_H-t1Y" width="560"></iframe><br />Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-61936155459538822542018-04-08T14:30:00.002-04:002021-09-23T13:36:38.621-04:00Add Bluetooth to your Car (For cars with aux input)This time around I'll show you how to add Bluetooth functionality in your car, if your car radio only has an auxiliary port.<br />
<br />
You need a Bluetooth to auxiliary adapter. Here are the links to the two that I showed in my video (which you may not want to buy, for reasons in my video):<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/363185918292?hash=item548f915154:g:QycAAOSw3ZpftOAL&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">The tiny one (eBay)</a><br />
<a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/353526985215?hash=item524fd9b1ff:g:L1EAAOSwKl5gYJSO&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">The bigger one (eBay)</a><br />
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Here are links to Amazon where you can find ones that should be true stereo audio (read the reviews to be more sure), but are more expensive:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://amzn.to/2qbGC7i">USA</a><br />
<a href="https://amzn.to/2qh0QLN">Canada</a><br />
<a href="https://amzn.to/2H8Htzg">UK</a><br />
<br />
And of course, here is the video:<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tCsnNonUVBU" width="560"></iframe><br />
<br />
And another video I threw together to test if you can properly hear stereo audio:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YwNs1Z0qRY0" width="560"></iframe><br />Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-13309685137085434852018-01-30T19:00:00.002-05:002018-06-12T09:04:43.611-04:00Automatic Sliding Door Cable Replacement on a 3rd Generation Honda OdysseyI replaced the cable on the automatic sliding door on our 2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L and I thought I'd share what I learned. These instructions will apply to any 3rd generation Odyssey (2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010) with automatic sliding doors (the EX-L and Touring).<br />
<br />
I had previously done this on our 2002 Odyssey using a <a href="http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/154039-diy-fix-sliding-door-cable-using-parts-under-10-a.html">write up on the OdyClub forums</a>. Much of it is the same, but there are very important things that are different. <b>This is not a full write up. I'm only writing about what is different with the 3rd gen.</b> There is a video I've posted at the bottom of this, but make sure you read all of this too.<br />
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First off: this job is not pleasant. If you can find the entire motor assembly for a price youâre willing to pay, go for it. The entire assembly is definitely easier to remove than it was in the 2nd gen.<br />
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<b>Parts</b><br />
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All the parts are the same, except for the cable. The green cable from Home Depot wonât work. The OEM cable is 1/16â, just the same as the green cable. But the OEM cable has a very, very thin coating. The green stuff has a thicker coating that brings the outside diameter of the cable to 3/32. Thatâs too big to fit in the motor used in the 3rd gens.<br />
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I ended up using 1/16â uncoated galvanized aircraft cable. Here in Canada, it seems to be harder to find this stuff. My father-in-law ended up calling around for me and got some from an aircraft mechanic. It cost more than it would elsewhere ($1/ft), but this stuff is tough. I couldnât cut it at all with wire cutters. I ended up using my angle grinder to cut it. You can find 1/16â galvanized cable at Home Depot, though the quality may not be the same.<br />
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Being uncoated, there is a worry of it rusting out if the galvanization wears off. My OEM cable rusted out where the coating was damaged, which caused it to break. Thatâs one factor of why Iâm more comfortable getting it from who I did: the galvanization is probably better and less likely to wear off as quickly (or at all). Time will tell.<br />
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Some Home Depot stores in the US stock 1/16â stainless steel wire rope. That would work too. Although one of the aircraft guys my father-in-law talked to said that the stainless stuff is weaker and also doesnât like to be constantly bent. Your mileage may vary.<br />
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Another option is using brake cable for bikes. It's a lot easier to find. Thicknesses are in millimeters, so you need be no thicker than 1.5mm (1/16" is 1.5875mm).<br />
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The length of the cable is very important to get right. You donât have much leeway. For the driverâs side, the cable going toward the front of the van is about 66â. The cable going around the back is about 62â. I did not replace the passenger side, so I canât tell you those lengths. Cut it a half inch longer just in case. You can always cut some off later, but you donât have too many options to lengthen it. I did have to lengthen mine a bit. I added about an inch on the back cable. I put a short length in the roller, and used one of the stops from the ferrule and stop set to attach it to the cable going to the motor. You can only put on a couple inches in that spot, so itâs much better to just get the cable length right the first time.<br />
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<b>Links to Parts</b><br />
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Cable with 1/16" outer diameter, about 12ft per side (maybe Home Depot, or online)<br />
US (aircraft cable): <a href="http://amzn.to/2gAC9Vo">http://amzn.to/2gAC9Vo</a><br />
Canada: harder to find aircraft cable, so try bike cable: <a href="https://amzn.to/2IbZLN8">https://amzn.to/2IbZLN8</a><br />
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Ferrule and stop set (locally, or online) (you probably won't need this if you use bike cable with a stopper end already on it)<br />
US: <a href="http://amzn.to/2gNrhXm">http://amzn.to/2gNrhXm</a><br />
Canada: <a href="http://amzn.to/2oZEelm">http://amzn.to/2oZEelm</a><br />
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Terminal lug, which needs to be ground down (Home Depot, or online)<br />
US: <a href="http://amzn.to/2gwJrvW">http://amzn.to/2gwJrvW</a><br />
Canada: try an electrical supplier<br />
<br />
<b>Opening the motor</b><br />
<br />
The driverâs side motor is so much easier to get to. The passenger side is in an awkward spot, so you will have to unmount it to work on it. The motor has a bunch of screws on the outside of it. Those can all come off. Here is a picture with the cover removed.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8k0-RJeQ_hPJ_wBS6wcNg0p5PMJ0Xt9lZKJ5TRkHKWkOr1FjaeC0y6iLt3wO_yDQnbmMf3lBCGo29uciPKxuPui7VTihXhN3xuWWXM_E3Z8SsJyFeMHr7K04So57fe0GU2j23M1HG9-s/s1600/door+motor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Door motor" border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="815" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8k0-RJeQ_hPJ_wBS6wcNg0p5PMJ0Xt9lZKJ5TRkHKWkOr1FjaeC0y6iLt3wO_yDQnbmMf3lBCGo29uciPKxuPui7VTihXhN3xuWWXM_E3Z8SsJyFeMHr7K04So57fe0GU2j23M1HG9-s/s320/door+motor.jpg" title="How everything should look when it's operational (but without the cover on)" width="318" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
A 10mm bolt and washer releases the pulley, and everything comes out. The white stoppers just clip in, so you can pull those right off. You may need to release the bottom clips of the white stoppers and push them up, then pull them out.<br />
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<b>Putting it back together</b><br />
<br />
I could not get the wire to feed through without taking off the rest of the assembly (where it feeds to the outside). There are 3 10mm bolts at the back, 4 in the front. Take those off, and pull off the rubber covers.<br />
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If some of the old cable is still exposed both inside and outside, and you have some heat-shrink tubing, you can shrink the tubing over both the old and new cable, and use that to pull the new cable through. This is definitely the easiest way to feed the new cable through.<br />
<br />
Otherwise, feed the new cable from the inside out: feed it through the tube, so it eventually comes out at the roller. I found that it would stop right where it met the roller. The end of my cable was frayed a bit, so I think thatâs why. I was able to use some pliers to push it through with more force than I could by hand.<br />
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Put the rubber covers back on and reattach. At this point you have one end of the cables at the motor and the other end outside.<br />
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I found that I had to feed the cable into the motor pulley before crimping the stop on it. But before that, feed the spring and white stopper over the cable. The springs have a straight piece at the one end, which must go toward the inside of the motor. Make sure you have the white stopper with the clip toward the bottom. After those are over the cable, you can feed the cable into the pulley. The cable coming into the left of the motor goes into the back of the pulley. The cable coming into the right of the motor goes into the front of the pulley (regardless of driver or passenger side). Feed the wire straight through to the other side, then crimp on the stopper. You can then pull it back and ensure it doesnât come back out.<br />
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Once both cables are attached, go outside and attach the roller (you could do this first if you want). The instructions for this are the same as the 2nd gen. Tighten it down as hard as you can. I used two sets of vice grips to tighten it as tight as possible.<br />
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It's also a good idea to fill the hole in the lug and cover the cable with JB Weld to make this connection as permanent as possible (although you may want to wait until you know the length is right and everything works before you do this). This will be your weakest link - if the cable slips out of here, you'll be doing this all over again.<br />
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Attach the door at this point if you want.<br />
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Back inside, roll the cables around the pulley as much as you can and push it into the housing. The gear the pulley sits on moves quite freely, so you will have a hard time lining it up right.<br />
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Clip in the white stoppers, and push the springs into place. This is a pain. The straight piece coming off the springs feed into a hole on either side. Use small pliers and a light so you can see the hole. Once those are in the hole, make sure you donât pull the wire outward, or youâll pull those springs out. Itâs annoying when that happens.<br />
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Put the washer and nut back over the pulley. Make sure the white stoppers are pushed all the way down so that they clip in.<br />
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By this point you would have noticed that there are also white clips around the pipe the cable feeds through that hold it to the body of the van. Put those back on. Those can be opened up with some effort if need be.<br />
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Itâs wise to test things before you put everything back together, but if you test, make sure you either hold down the spring on the right with a finger, or put the cover on with at least one screw. The right spring can pop out otherwise.<br />
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If you have any questions, ask me in the comments here, on the video, or in the <a href="http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/257625-automatic-sliding-door-cable-replacement.html">thread over at the OdyClub forums</a> where I first posted this.<br />
<br />
Here's the video:<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/P6IDuQc2fLs" width="560"></iframe>Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-25665066982125852017-12-26T12:58:00.004-05:002022-08-03T23:03:00.765-04:00100W LED Video LightNow that my YouTube channel has been picking up traction (more than I ever thought it would), I figured I should do a better job with the quality of my videos. A big piece of that is lighting. So I wanted some good, powerful lights to use, but without having to spend hundreds to thousands of dollars.<br />
<br />
So in this video, I'm going to show you how I made my own DIY video lights with 100W LED chips for about $50 worth of parts. These turned out to be super bright!! I added dimmer knobs so I can control the brightness, as well as umbrellas to soften the light.<br />
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These lights can even be used as work lights. Just be careful if you use them for doing drywall: since there is a fan in it, it will suck in drywall dust and get the inside of the light all gross. I speak from experience :)<br />
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First, here is a list of all the parts I used, with links to where you can buy them. All prices are in US dollars and from 2017. Prices may have changed by the time you're reading this.<br />
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LED light set: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/221992627350?hash=item33afcaac96:g:9eMAAOSw1DtXD7RW&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a> (~$20)<br />
10kOhm logarithmic potentiometer: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=a10k+logarithmic+potentiometer&_sop=15&LH_BIN=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xa10k+logarithmic+potentiometer+-dual.TRS1&_nkw=a10k+logarithmic+potentiometer+-dual&_sacat=0&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a> ($1.89 for 2) or locally<br />
10kOhm trim potentiometer: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=10k+trim+potentiometer&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a> ($0.99 for 10) or locally<br />
USB wall charger: free or dollar store<br />
2ft 4â PVC pipe: free or <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/VPC-4-in-x-2-ft-PVC-Sch-40-Pipe-2204/202300523">Home Depot</a> ($9.13)<br />
2x 4â PVC drain: <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-4-in-PVC-Snap-In-Floor-Drain-with-4-1-2-in-Strainer-for-PVC-Pipe-43569/100122758">Home Depot</a> ($3.21)<br />
Threaded insert: <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-20-x-20-mm-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Type-E-Insert-Nuts-4-Pack-54474/202105593">Home Depot</a> ($2.97 for 4)<br />
Cabinet Handle: <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Richelieu-Hardware-3-in-76-mm-Black-Plastic-Dual-Mount-Cabinet-Pull-BP313390/205417472">Home Depot</a> ($1.16)<br />
Black plastic paint: <a href="http://amzn.to/2ikWHnc">Amazon</a> ($5.94) or locally<br />
IEC320 C8 power socket: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=iec320+c8+socket&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a> ($1.14 for 2) or locally<br />
IEC320 C8 power cord: free or <a href="https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7671">Monoprice</a> ($1.88)<br />
Knob for potentiometer: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=knurled+shaft+knob&_sop=15&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a> ($0.99 for 5) or locally<br />
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If you add all that up, it comes to just over $50. But if you decide to make a second one, the cost for the second comes down to about $30 since many of parts you can only buy in multiples, so you already have enough for the second.<br />
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You can also buy lighting umbrellas with holders, as I did:<br />
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Umbrella holder: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=Swivel+Flash+Umbrella+Holder+Type+C&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a><br />
Umbrella: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=33%E2%80%9D+Photography+White+Umbrella&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Finally, here is the video:<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6GuWEI53Cxo" width="560"></iframe>
<br />
I doubt anyone will make these lights <i>exactly</i> as I did. I took inspiration from these two videos, so check them out to get some ideas for yourself.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/c--5c3Egv4E" width="560"></iframe>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jaJQ2fo4poU" width="560"></iframe>
Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-44418291885784263492017-02-20T23:26:00.003-05:002022-08-03T23:03:30.715-04:00Add Dimmer to ZY1010B 100W LED Driver<b>Update: The full light is done! <a href="https://www.gabeshacks.com/2017/12/100w-led-video-light.html">Click here</a></b><br />
<br />
I will be working on 100W LED lights to help with lighting my videos. I bought this kit on eBay for about $30US: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/221992627350?hash=item33afcaac96:g:9eMAAOSw1DtXD7RW&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a><br />
<br />
I was planning to wire in a dimmer, like this guy did: <a href="https://youtu.be/c--5c3Egv4E?t=4m4s">https://youtu.be/c--5c3Egv4E?t=4m4s</a><br />
<br />
But alas, the LED driver I got did not have a trim potentiometer like the one in the video. However, on closer inspection, I found that the circuit board has a spot for one, there just isn't one there:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KAIxL0VMvOgkakUbNsns6bXX2K3Gz2kC3EyUzVsiVa70uQy9g5rKpizgEy5RYSDU0S4lYwYmgjON0Wy55R_ww0rR-uWN3AltOsoie-ujXe-sPbb7-dI9hzeqRs6XqaJ_Oxneu1JpH3I/s1600/VR1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KAIxL0VMvOgkakUbNsns6bXX2K3Gz2kC3EyUzVsiVa70uQy9g5rKpizgEy5RYSDU0S4lYwYmgjON0Wy55R_ww0rR-uWN3AltOsoie-ujXe-sPbb7-dI9hzeqRs6XqaJ_Oxneu1JpH3I/s400/VR1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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So I wired one in there, and it worked perfectly!<br />
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Here's a link to a potentiometer you can use for this: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=b10k+potentiometer&_sop=15&LH_BIN=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xb10k+potentiometer+knob.TRS2&_nkw=b10k+potentiometer+knob&_sacat=0&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
And here's the video where I demonstrate how it works:<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/i4cY7c-0zyk" width="560"></iframe><br />
<br />
Stay tuned for a video where I put all of this together.Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-20379219403984541242017-02-16T21:06:00.004-05:002021-07-31T11:21:18.175-04:00Save Money on CAD/USD Exchange RatesA little known fact is that the banks that issue credit cards usually have an inflated foreign exchange rate. For many cards, like the Canadian Tire Options card, for example, that rate is 2.5% on top of the <a href="https://www.mastercard.us/en-us/consumers/get-support/convert-currency.html">MasterCard exchange rate</a>. So for us Canadians who do a lot of cross-border shopping, or shopping online in US dollars, that can add up.<br />
<br />
Can you avoid it? Yes! There are a few cards I know of, available to Canadians, that do not have foreign exchange fees and no annual fee:<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.hometrust.ca/credit-cards/preferred-visa-card/">HomeTrust Preferred Visa</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.scotiabank.com/ca/en/personal/credit-cards/visa/passport-infinite-card.html">ScotiaBank Passport Visa</a></li>
<li>Any card from <a href="https://brimfinancial.com/">Brim Financial</a></li>
</ol>
<br />
Personally, we use the HomeTrust card.<br />
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</div>
Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-62530076547837178642017-02-15T17:45:00.002-05:002022-12-19T13:36:16.881-05:00Stop Your Treadmill from BeepingAre the beeps from your treadmill annoying? Want to run while the kids are in bed? Watch this video to see how to quiet your treadmill.<br />
<br />
I'll show you four (well, technically five) different ways to do it:<br />
<br />
1. Muffle the sound, if you just find it too loud.<br />
2. Disable the sound entirely<br />
3. Add a switch to turn the sound on and off<br />
4. Add a volume knob<br />
<br />
The 5th option, which is what I do in the video, combines 3 and 4. Options 1 and 2 require no special tools, but doing option 2 without a soldering iron is not recommended.<br />
<br />
Watch the video to see how I do it:
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nQfJ181wrzY" width="560"></iframe>
<br />
<br />
Here are wiring diagrams for the other options, with links to where you can buy what you need:<br />
<br />
<b>Switch</b><br />
Here is a push on / push off (aka self-locking) switch: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=round+switch+locking+-rocker+-momentary+-non&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrTeCzXPpf2LnPKlYxtFY1F1EtvMHFmiyVOG6V48Ng4nYiJgwCgJOY-ChZMBN40T55jlnKrflB9ZtWP17ZrVSPDYlcH4bs144QA4ZQ4jH1CFI6vAVut6fH1CF3uMfn7ykXeCwxnYGh1xg/s1600/switch.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrTeCzXPpf2LnPKlYxtFY1F1EtvMHFmiyVOG6V48Ng4nYiJgwCgJOY-ChZMBN40T55jlnKrflB9ZtWP17ZrVSPDYlcH4bs144QA4ZQ4jH1CFI6vAVut6fH1CF3uMfn7ykXeCwxnYGh1xg/s1600/switch.png" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Volume knob</b><br />
You'll need a 20kΩ potentiometer (labelled as B20K), which you can buy here: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=20k+linear+potentiometer+knob&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzf8knbAr2aGnPaObionpjEA7tb_avn1ei21kh4AFDvhkUAbkz0EMdQPAqQQyx_G4MSaDyrhKRKtpJhA1XjoTGV3-eqjVv-Gy1ENUvGOdkx4jZ_A5XGUUe0DbcFWc_Az7_MJZWIjq0rVE/s1600/just+pot.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzf8knbAr2aGnPaObionpjEA7tb_avn1ei21kh4AFDvhkUAbkz0EMdQPAqQQyx_G4MSaDyrhKRKtpJhA1XjoTGV3-eqjVv-Gy1ENUvGOdkx4jZ_A5XGUUe0DbcFWc_Az7_MJZWIjq0rVE/s1600/just+pot.png" /></a></div>
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<b>Volume knob with switch</b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For this you'll need a 10kΩ (or more) potentiometer with combined switch: <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=Potentiometer+10k+Linear+With+Switch&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">eBay</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1yMW-MigcyJzm160bgiEFTHsEn43QO7PAjEvxoQ7awjXfIUQrmFsLgQKloHXtqTFZXVhha9bvQJI8JgNj_ndFerrvFhcqSHmw6ASVkXe8esgGB3d4LHZJDRjNNW6wgUtWq5qquAmZLFo/s1600/Pot+with+switch.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1yMW-MigcyJzm160bgiEFTHsEn43QO7PAjEvxoQ7awjXfIUQrmFsLgQKloHXtqTFZXVhha9bvQJI8JgNj_ndFerrvFhcqSHmw6ASVkXe8esgGB3d4LHZJDRjNNW6wgUtWq5qquAmZLFo/s1600/Pot+with+switch.png" /></a></div>
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Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-55480546030818590002017-02-05T10:58:00.002-05:002017-02-09T12:31:57.956-05:00Leather band for RoadID EliteIn this video I'll show you how to make a leather band for the RoadID Elite to replace the silicone band that comes with it. I use these bracelets for my kids, and I've found that the silicone bands break after a while. I've gone through 4-5 bands now and I don't want to replace them anymore.<br />
<br />
These bracelets can be bought at:<br />
<a href="https://www.roadid.com/">https://www.roadid.com</a><br />
<br />
Note that you can buy the clasp and plate on their own if you plan on making your own leather band.<br />
<br />
A leather trim piece can be bought on Amazon:<br />
US: <a href="http://amzn.to/2kB9J2h">http://amzn.to/2kB9J2h</a><br />
Canada: <a href="http://amzn.to/2laIsjL">http://amzn.to/2laIsjL</a><br />
UK: <a href="http://amzn.to/2k96MT5">http://amzn.to/2k96MT5</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/b82iITSvgus" width="560"></iframe>
Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-37583782866888221022016-11-27T16:46:00.003-05:002021-09-23T13:48:46.696-04:00Extend Keyless Entry RangeIn this video, I'll show you how to add a bigger antenna to your vehicle's keyless entry system to extend the range.<br />
<br />
You'll need the normal soldering tools, as well as a long piece of wire. I used a 14g electrical wire, but even speaker wire would work.<br />
<br />
Optionally, a car trim pry tool would be helpful, which can be purchased <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XTrim+Pry+Tool.TRS0&_nkw=Trim+Pry+Tool&_sacat=0&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">here on eBay</a>.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1qwYY1OOnOc" width="560"></iframe>Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-17777084363369454412016-11-01T00:02:00.002-04:002021-09-23T13:50:02.345-04:00Install new TPMS sensors in your tires by yourself!As promised, here is my follow-up video where I show you how to install new TPMS sensors in a tire that is already mounted on a rim. Do this if you are replacing an existing TPMS sensor, or if you are adding a sensor where you had a regular rubber valve before.<br />
<br />
I am installing Autel MX Sensors in my winter tires. In my previous post, I showed you how to program these sensors. If you missed that, read it here: <a href="https://www.gabeshacks.com/2016/10/how-to-clone-and-program-new-tpms.html">https://www.gabeshacks.com/2016/10/how-to-clone-and-program-new-tpms.html</a><br />
<br />
Here's a tip I learned <a href="https://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/300226-tpms-moving-wheels-corner-corner.html#post1840953">later</a>: Drive a nail through the two boards into the small piece so they don't slip.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Maunq29ow2U" width="560"></iframe>Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-31451219205147867522016-10-27T12:21:00.002-04:002021-09-23T14:06:34.374-04:00How to clone and program new TPMS sensors with Autel MX Sensors & MaxiTPMS PADHere I show you how you can buy TPMS sensors on the cheap and clone your existing ones to avoid having to visit your dealer to reprogram your vehicle. Use this if you are replacing a broken TPMS sensor, or if you want to install new ones, especially in winter tires, for example.<br />
<br />
I'm doing this for my 2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L, but the principles apply to any supported vehicle.<br />
<br /><span style="background-color: white; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: Roboto, Noto, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Since I posted this video, Autel has released a new sensor that works on both 315MHz and 433MHz called the "1-Sensor", so you don't need to worry about which frequency your vehicle works on.
To figure out if these sensors will work with your vehicle, go to this page, click on "Downloads" and download the document called "TS508_V6.19_FunctionList_" that ends with the two-letter code for the global market you are in ("US" for North America): </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: Roboto, Noto, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://www.maxitpms.com/tpmscms/product2/794.jhtml">https://www.maxitpms.com/tpmscms/product2/794.jhtml</a></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: Roboto, Noto, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;">
That spreadsheet will also tell you whether your vehicle automatically learns new TPMS sensors. If it says "A", then you do not need programmable sensors at all. Just buy any compatible sensor that works on the right frequency for your vehicle.
</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: Roboto, Noto, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;">You can order the programmable MX sensors online:</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: Roboto, Noto, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;">
</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: Roboto, Noto, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;">
</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: Roboto, Noto, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://ebay.to/2ZkR8xb" target="">eBay (shipped from China)</a></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: Roboto, Noto, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;">
</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #0d0d0d; font-family: Roboto, Noto, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://amzn.to/3CIEwyC">Amazon.com (shipped from US)</a>
And the programmer:
<a href="https://ebay.to/3zCgwLw">Autel MaxiTPMS PAD (eBay - from China)</a></span><br />
<br />
Note: All links are affiliate links, meaning that when you use these links, eBay will give me a percentage of anything you spend, at no cost to you. This helps me justify to my wife spending time on these videos. Thank you! :)<br />
<br />
And here's the video:<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/N6p6xV4PlHc" width="560"></iframe>Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-11512347470818704422016-10-03T20:47:00.000-04:002016-10-08T11:27:50.893-04:00Why I started wet shaving: the money!Here's a video about why I started wet shaving. It does give you a better shave, but the main reason I made the switch is for the cost. Here I explain how I got started wet shaving, and what you will need to get started. I won't give you a ton of options, since that can get confusing. I'll just tell you what I bought. If you do the same, it's a great starting point.<br />
<br />
The short story is: It'll cost you about $50 US to get started, and the only ongoing costs are soap and blades, which are super cheap.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ll08TDvNIx8" width="560"></iframe>
<br />
Here are the links to everything I talked about in the video:<br />
<br />
How to Shave in 120 Seconds: <a href="https://youtu.be/38Sz1QxjQwk">https://youtu.be/38Sz1QxjQwk</a><br />
<br />
Merkur 34C Razor<br />
Canada: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dnZdHl">http://amzn.to/2dnZdHl</a><br />
UK: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dC8tqu">http://amzn.to/2dC8tqu</a><br />
US: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dzX6QR">http://amzn.to/2dzX6QR</a><br />
<br />
Omega brushes<br />
Canada: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dmQLdT">http://amzn.to/2dmQLdT</a><br />
UK: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dDZx4k">http://amzn.to/2dDZx4k</a><br />
US: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dmQqYO">http://amzn.to/2dmQqYO</a><br />
<br />
Prorazo green soap<br />
Canada: <a href="http://amzn.to/2cOOkdI">http://amzn.to/2cOOkdI</a><br />
UK: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dE02v6">http://amzn.to/2dE02v6</a><br />
US: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dmQyaK">http://amzn.to/2dmQyaK</a><br />
<br />
Astra Superior blades (100 pack)<br />
Canada: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dNJmAb">http://amzn.to/2dNJmAb</a><br />
UK: <a href="http://amzn.to/2e27xib">http://amzn.to/2e27xib</a><br />
US: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dNIviZ">http://amzn.to/2dNIviZ</a>Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-81357416462071275372016-09-05T22:04:00.002-04:002021-09-23T14:14:33.855-04:00Fitibit Charge / Charge HR - Replace Broken Band!Officially, there is no way to replace a band on a Fitbit Charge or Charge HR. Unofficially, here's how you do it:<br />
<br />
You'll have to buy a replacement band for a Garmin Vivofit. <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Garmin+Vivofit+band&_sop=15&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">Search eBay</a> and you can get one from China for $1. Or if you just can't wait and you're willing to pay more, you can buy them on Amazon:<br />
<br />
US: <a href="http://amzn.to/2c1qATJ">http://amzn.to/2c1qATJ</a><br />
UK: <a href="http://amzn.to/2e27dzS">http://amzn.to/2e27dzS</a><br />
Canada: <a href="http://amzn.to/2c893wu">http://amzn.to/2c893wu</a><br />
<br />
Optionally, you can also get a "Fitbit Charge Cover" to go over top. Search eBay for one cheap from China, or Amazon:<br />
<br />
US: <a href="http://amzn.to/2bSE2zd">http://amzn.to/2bSE2zd</a><br />
UK: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dAPWOM">http://amzn.to/2dAPWOM</a><br />
Canada: <a href="http://amzn.to/2c89Qh7">http://amzn.to/2c89Qh7</a><br />
<br />
And here's a video of how to put it all together:<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/sqdY5QiXkek" width="560"></iframe>Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-47051744414493947212016-08-29T17:39:00.002-04:002021-09-23T14:14:56.630-04:00Make your own floating acoustic guitar mountAs promised, here is how I made a wall mount for my acoustic guitar. It worked out nicely, except that I damaged the paint on our wall a bit while installing it :( I'll need to patch that.<br />
<br />
If you prefer to just buy something, Monoprice does carry a cheap horizontal guitar mount, but it's not as pretty: <a href="https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=602131">https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=602131</a><br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OIFHyy-C9eo" width="560"></iframe>Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-25153949366748740962016-07-28T23:52:00.002-04:002016-10-08T11:20:19.736-04:00Make your own floating electric guitar mountSo I thought I'd start making YouTube videos too. For my first one, I'll show you how to mount an electric guitar horizontally on the wall so it looks almost like it's floating there. Since we've been finishing our basement, and my wife decided to accent the room with red, I thought my cherry red Epiphone Dot would look brilliant on the wall.<br />
<br />
There are other hangers that can mount your guitar horizontally, if you're willing to pay for it. For example,<br />
<br />
Monoprice: <a href="http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=602130">http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=602130</a><br />
<br />
Woodies Hangers on Amazon:<br />
US: <a href="http://amzn.to/2a3p3zZ">http://amzn.to/2a3p3zZ</a><br />
UK: <a href="http://amzn.to/2dAPNef">http://amzn.to/2dAPNef</a><br />
Canada: <a href="http://amzn.to/2akGxXC">http://amzn.to/2akGxXC</a><br />
<br />
But I like what I did better, especially since I had all the materials hanging around already, so it was free!<br />
<br />
I will be doing a similar project with my acoustic guitar, so keep an eye out for that if you're interested.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/M6-NC3YKJoM" width="560"></iframe>Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-13635250570173391542016-04-23T12:46:00.004-04:002021-09-23T14:22:03.697-04:00Under-Cabinet LED LightingHave you ever looked at under-cabinet lighting in the big box stores and wondered why it's so expensive? It's really not that hard to set something up yourself. I'll explain how I put in under-cabinet lights at minimal cost. Some of the materials I bought on eBay from China, which takes at least a month to come in the mail, so some patience is required.<br />
<br />
I used <b>LED strip lights</b>. You can buy them in rolls on eBay. You will need to measure the length of all the cabinets to figure out how much you need. I ended up putting 2 rows of LEDs under each cabinet. I bought a 5 meter roll, and still had a bit left over. But our kitchen is fairly small. If you buy larger LEDs, you may decide that only one strip per cabinet is ok. The size of the LEDs are given by a four-digit number. For example, I bought 3528 LEDs. That means each LED is 3.2mm x 2.8mm. You can also buy 5050 LEDs, which are 5.0mm x 5.0mm, which should give more light, if you want it.<br />
<br />
Once you decide how much and what size you want, search eBay. For example, "<a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=5m+5050+led+strip&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">5m 5050 LED strip</a>". You can buy a 5 meter strip for under $10US. Many sellers have several options, like the color. So make sure you're not buying red LEDs if you want white. You can also find soft white or cool white, depending on your preference. You can buy waterproof strips, which have a silicone covering over the whole strip, but it costs a little more, makes the wiring a little trickier, and it's unnecessary in this application. But it'll still work, if that's what you prefer.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWnGsVtZzZKPQktKkAwtZzO8jBUoqsEpshHtbhY_hUsFPk3mGkYTD1v0Yupbe-nITPbQ6qgVmATmwqjuSSZu153frCwYTHNe_umWuw6Oh98ZNgn7bkPCAHYmnKbeikvlK9WcBEFNHeaTM/s1600/connector.png" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWnGsVtZzZKPQktKkAwtZzO8jBUoqsEpshHtbhY_hUsFPk3mGkYTD1v0Yupbe-nITPbQ6qgVmATmwqjuSSZu153frCwYTHNe_umWuw6Oh98ZNgn7bkPCAHYmnKbeikvlK9WcBEFNHeaTM/s200/connector.png" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Connector</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
LED strips are designed so that they can be cut every 3 LEDs. There are special <b>LED connectors</b> that make it easier to wire the strips you cut off. Search for "<a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=2+pin+led+connectors&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337979471&toolid=11800&mkevt=1">2 pin led connectors</a>". These will clip on to the LED strip and have short wires that you'll connect to power. Make sure you buy enough so you have one for every strip you cut off. You can buy a pack of 10 for just a few dollars. If you want to make any 90-degree turns in your LED strips, you can also buy special connectors to do that too.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBcqOS3e0fHV7UjpRWNUyc_cAFvN-1DFw17GKofNm-dBWv4Cc5OJYMNpYpztoEYG38mXQQskhVgA0V_PBi9aRViE8xgXdHn88XYG3ObNS8hBnGskp3Jle7t36TVHaQmkQFhGLXQ94_sPM/s1600/power+supply.png" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBcqOS3e0fHV7UjpRWNUyc_cAFvN-1DFw17GKofNm-dBWv4Cc5OJYMNpYpztoEYG38mXQQskhVgA0V_PBi9aRViE8xgXdHn88XYG3ObNS8hBnGskp3Jle7t36TVHaQmkQFhGLXQ94_sPM/s320/power+supply.png" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Power supply</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
These LED strips run on 12V, so you'll need a properly-sized <b>power supply</b>. You have to be aware of how much current will be required to power all your LEDs. The current depends on the size of the LEDs and the number of LEDs per meter. The short story is that 5 meters of 3258 LEDs at 60 LEDs/m would require about 2.2A. If you buy 5050 LEDs are 60 LEDs/m, that will draw about 6.6A. Be generous with your calculation. Using an oversized power supply won't actually use more power. It'll just make more power available, which is a good thing. I'm using a 5A power supply for the about 4.5m of 3258 LED strip that I used, which I also bought on eBay for under $10US.<br />
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You might even have a power supply laying around your house that you can use! If you have an old, unused laptop power supply, check if it's 12V and puts out enough current. If you're not even going to use a full 5 meters, you might even be able to use a small "wall wart" type power supply. But those small ones don't usually put out any more than 2A.<br />
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You will also need some <b>wire </b>to run to the bottom of your cabinets. I used some fairly thick speaker wire, which was totally overkill and doesn't look that nice under the cabinets (although you can't see it when you're standing up). Just about any thin wire will do, but you might think about matching the colour of the bottom of your cabinets. If you are going to put your power supply on top of your cabinets, like I did, you will need enough to run to the bottom of each cabinet.<br />
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It's also handy to have some <b>heat shrink tubing</b> to cover the connections between the LED connectors and your wire. Again, you can match the colour of the bottom of your cabinets, although anything other than black might be harder to find. This stuff is pretty cheap, even if you buy it locally at an electronics store.<br />
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You will need to <b>decide where you will plug in your power supply</b>. Our house already had a light over the sink, with a switch under the cabinets. The wire from the switch came out of the wall above the cabinets, so I decided to hook into that to feed my LEDs, so the under-cabinet lights come on with the light over the sink. I cut the wire feeding the light where it came out of the wall and installed a receptacle there.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn5VsPzc5wx_rK6APDmNqFLzq_-UWZoKKNv4KJ-DBWbuzw2BxrbAIWPkAsupiBwVMVt0YqFJagUAMLHu74dfS12n4CKOjtQ0VT-xUPC-wQsHPc694RtHW4I2jzIMJQ6_PzGis97I7UEkQ/s1600/block.png" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn5VsPzc5wx_rK6APDmNqFLzq_-UWZoKKNv4KJ-DBWbuzw2BxrbAIWPkAsupiBwVMVt0YqFJagUAMLHu74dfS12n4CKOjtQ0VT-xUPC-wQsHPc694RtHW4I2jzIMJQ6_PzGis97I7UEkQ/s320/block.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wire terminal block</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It is better to run the power in parallel, that is, split the power and run it to each cabinet. So if you have 4 cabinets, run 4 wires from your power supply to each cabinet. I used this little device you see in the picture to split the power called a "<b>wire terminal block</b>". You can find them on eBay as well as some local hardware stores. I cut the connector off the end of the wire coming out of the power supply so I could connect it to the block.<br />
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Make sure you get the polarity right: connect the positive wire from the power supply to the positive wire of your wire. The wires will usually have a different colour wire (sometimes red for positive, black for negative). Sometimes both wires are the same colour, but the positive but have a line (sometime dotted, sometimes solid) running along it. Some power supplies have no difference in the wires at all, which means you will need to use a multimeter to figure it out. LEDs just won't work if you get the polarity backwards. It won't damage them, they just won't light up.<br />
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You <i>can </i>feed the power in series, that is, run wire from the power supply to the first cabinet, then connect the end of that LED strip to the next, and so on. But you may find that the LEDs at the end of that series will be dimmer than the first ones.<br />
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<b>Run the wire</b> from the power supply down each cabinet. I drilled small holes in the back corner of the cabinets and ran the wire inside the cabinets. I pulled the shelves out a tiny bit to allow room for the wire behind them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEp6coGtyrpbpjv1Oo4Sy4MsFEkhXwQ2USezTtmc8XxWgkHasCFCw4wHqUthTFA21wmINOcvuvYKDqKYExCz75Bev4ItjrEbVtoZMxM5Vw3Tb2ULSSZ65g3ao1DiHlkJ5QUEBR1lFql70/s1600/cut+guide.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEp6coGtyrpbpjv1Oo4Sy4MsFEkhXwQ2USezTtmc8XxWgkHasCFCw4wHqUthTFA21wmINOcvuvYKDqKYExCz75Bev4ItjrEbVtoZMxM5Vw3Tb2ULSSZ65g3ao1DiHlkJ5QUEBR1lFql70/s320/cut+guide.png" width="320" /></a><b>Cut your LED strips</b> to size for each cabinet. Remember that they can only be cut in specific places, which are marked on the strip.<br />
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<b>Attach one connector to each strip</b>. Make sure you get the polarity right: the positive wire (usually red) is connected to the + mark on the strip. And make sure the metal tabs in the connector are on top of the metal on the LED strip.<br />
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<b>Attach the connectors to the wire</b> coming from the power supply. If you're using heat shrink tubing, cut a piece of that and slide it on first, before you connect the wires. I recommend you solder these connections, but twisting them together would work too; the heat shrink tubing will keep it together. Use a hair dryer to shrink the tubing. The tubing does a few things: make it pretty, adds some strength to the joint, and keeps the positive and negative from touching each other (which would shut your lights off).<br />
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<b>Test it!</b> Apply power to your power supply and (hopefully) watch it light up! If any of the strips don't light up, check your connections to make sure nothing is lose, and that the polarity is correct. If your LED strips did not have plus and minus signs, you may have to flip the whole strip around to correct the polarity.<br />
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Now that you're sure everything is working, peel the back off the LED strips and <b>stick them to the bottom of your cabinets</b>. I put them close to the front, so they're hidden by the lip at the front of the cabinets.<br />
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The other wires will need to be stuck to the cabinet too, so they don't hang down. You can use some silicone, some crazy glue, or double-sided tape. Whatever you use, you'll likely have to apply pressure to it for a few minutes at least to make sure it stays in place. I used a piece of wood wedged between the wire and my counter top.<br />
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Once everything is dry, enjoy! My total cost was less than $20US.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHFPzk6AlUDAPXVfI8FozXUGnYILGydaSxDdAn9lR3HhyphenhyphenxYCMsDikfgCW2x6w2xv7gV00NIoUVFDzhF3cPNQFoQgA6R46JmR4jaRxk1TFILbGD1WEpbCN8QWH1XRQfxREAHyRDR7eufSo/s1600/together.png"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHFPzk6AlUDAPXVfI8FozXUGnYILGydaSxDdAn9lR3HhyphenhyphenxYCMsDikfgCW2x6w2xv7gV00NIoUVFDzhF3cPNQFoQgA6R46JmR4jaRxk1TFILbGD1WEpbCN8QWH1XRQfxREAHyRDR7eufSo/s640/together.png" width="640" /></a>Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-39228804432650177242015-04-17T23:30:00.002-04:002021-09-23T14:25:23.094-04:00Gas Price Conversion<a href="http://convertgasprice.com/" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDs4S3Uy0rmYeXsW9r8pj0pluiFvX2Y36G-zfqc-HM0Y8jDN6dU22T3df6E7NRCZMxJ3dQBP2We0_cNWoQFMcrGdmWJFPvN-EF8Ab5XKp19LZJDPlETASR7beEXb45s_E9WpjxCs-OZ00/s1600/gasprice.png" width="292" /></a>Living near the US/Canada border, I frequently go across to the US and end up buying gas. But, as any border hopper knows, converting between gallons and litres in your head and accounting for the exchange rate can be challenging. So, for that, I made a tiny website to do the calculation for you: <a href="https://convertgasprice.com/"><b>convertgasprice.com</b></a>.<br />
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By default, the countries are set to Canada and the United States. But I've added several other countries. Most of the world sells fuel in litres, but a handful still use gallons. Other than the US, Belize, Honduras, Guatemala, El Salvador, and a few others sell fuel in gallons.<br />
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If the default countries don't work for you, select the countries you need, then check the box to save your selection for future visits. Later, just load the site, type the price, and see the conversion.<br />
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On your smart phone, you can bookmark the site to your home page, and you'll have a pretty icon there to use later.<br />
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If you're in Europe, and buy petrol instead of gas, you can use <a href="https://convertpetrolprice.com/"><b>convertpetrolprice.com</b></a> instead. The default countries are UK and Ireland, though that really just converts pounds to euros since both sell petrol in litres.<br />
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Exchange rates are updated nightly (thanks to <a href="https://currencylayer.com/">currencylayer.com</a> - you rock).<br />
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If you use it and like it, let me know in the comments. If you have any suggestions for added features, let me know that too!Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-64435608222751431672011-09-21T18:52:00.002-04:002021-09-23T14:23:02.228-04:00Hummus Recipe<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">I only started eating hummus maybe last year. I never really heard about it before that. Now I love it. It gives me my garlic fix every day (keeps me not sick), and it's healthy! Not all hummus is alike though. I find some brands are really bland. But I found one recently that's one of the best I've had: <a href="http://www.summerfresh.com/product/summer-fresh-original-hummus/">Summer Fresh Classics Light Hummus</a>. I don't usually like "light" stuff, but we got it because my son (18 months), who has several allergies, can eat it. In fact, he'll eat a ton of hummus. He'll scoop it up with a cracker, and just keep scooping without actually eating the cracker.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">But rather than buying this over and over, I've been trying to make my own that tastes similar. My first try wasn't very good, but today I got pretty close. Here's my recipe:</span><br />
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<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">1 can of chickpeas (540ml, 19oz), drained</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">4 tbsp lemon juice</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">4 tbsp tahini (I used store bought stuff this time, but you can find recipes to make your own)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">1 large clove of garlic</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">1/2 tbsp salt</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">1/4 cup water</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">Put it all in a blender and mix it! Now it is quite thick, which means that sometimes you'll get a bubble around the blender's blade and the blender won't actually be mixing anything. If that happens, stop the blender, stir it by hand, then start the blender again. I used a Magic Bullet so that I could pick up the whole thing and shake it while it was going.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">Enjoy!</span></div>Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-76795343966842216762011-07-06T21:56:00.003-04:002021-09-23T14:23:37.585-04:00How to Repair the Door Checker on a CivicThere is nothing more annoying when you're trying to buckle in a struggling two-year-old into their car seat than having the door constantly whack you from behind, pushing you into the car on top of your kid. Even if I opened the door slowly and carefully let it go, it just wouldn't stay open. I had to open up the door panel to replace the door lock actuator anyway, so while I had it open I figured I'd take a stab at fixing the part that is supposed to keep the door open: something they call the door checker. Sure, this is a relatively cheap part, but if all four are causing you grief, it would likely run you over $100 to replace them all.<br />
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I'll be doing this on one of the back doors of my 2003 Honda Civic. The door checker on other cars may be similar though. If you have similar success on another car, let me know in the comments.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht1UM0S1ePa-FxZSdbNIhGrH9CJcVDNMOoOHTyyb5rC69FTcaN3wp2jnTPBDkEaRIoWpcDGavIaTMGr-Egml-qBTLK2G8wC6J-KKPDdbwgCh-cdj0WkPYNPS9a8ZcLUTuYkYIeM1ZYYtc/s1600/door+checker.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht1UM0S1ePa-FxZSdbNIhGrH9CJcVDNMOoOHTyyb5rC69FTcaN3wp2jnTPBDkEaRIoWpcDGavIaTMGr-Egml-qBTLK2G8wC6J-KKPDdbwgCh-cdj0WkPYNPS9a8ZcLUTuYkYIeM1ZYYtc/s320/door+checker.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>First thing, make sure you've <a href="https://www.gabeshacks.com/2011/07/how-to-remove-civic-door-panel.html">removed the door panel</a>. Once that's done, remove the three bolts holding the door checker in place. If your Civic was built in Canada, the bolt sizes may be the same as mine: 10mm for the bolts on the door and 12mm for the bolt on the car frame.<br />
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The door checker can only be pulled out through the inside of the door. So reach inside the door with one hand and pull it out.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoRlzQpVhYQU3SDpCL3wEW9HSzqq6M6oMlkgwne1VUqzUB_iWboUteZn3sw294ySv1lQXo9SusJW06Z1_x2egUWcBFGc6ZS-LHpvLSq8gursoGaXw8HWJ_V4W2zCKGKQ-gWPRqQqfnIoE/s1600/door+checker+removed.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoRlzQpVhYQU3SDpCL3wEW9HSzqq6M6oMlkgwne1VUqzUB_iWboUteZn3sw294ySv1lQXo9SusJW06Z1_x2egUWcBFGc6ZS-LHpvLSq8gursoGaXw8HWJ_V4W2zCKGKQ-gWPRqQqfnIoE/s320/door+checker+removed.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>This is what you'll see when you've removed it. You'll see the piece on the right of the picture moves back and forth. That piece is supposed to exert significant pressure on the bar, so that when it falls over the grooves, it grabs on and holds the door in place. What you'll likely find after taking it off is that you can slide it back and forth, over the grooves, with relative ease and little resistance. That's Bad.âą<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoLYFSUNUv0hU0P2D5Bdb5faHjPf1dGdZQr8EHiswFkdbKqaNzY5oVNRuupVkl_JrvhPMeBDHSLtyRoQ7Osqsv3C66YEyYvbtA-3ngPTrzzHkeQKX_dbotil4xR8FslByfNfTdgDiCaAY/s1600/open+checker.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoLYFSUNUv0hU0P2D5Bdb5faHjPf1dGdZQr8EHiswFkdbKqaNzY5oVNRuupVkl_JrvhPMeBDHSLtyRoQ7Osqsv3C66YEyYvbtA-3ngPTrzzHkeQKX_dbotil4xR8FslByfNfTdgDiCaAY/s320/open+checker.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>So let's open that bad boy up. Slide the big part (the part that slides) over to the slim side of the bar so it's easier to work with. There's a plate with little tabs on each corner holding this thing together. Fold those tabs up with pliers. In the picture, the tabs on the right are already folded up. The slick clip-art pliers show how to grab the pliers on to the tabs to pull them up. You <i>can</i> use a flat-head screwdriver too, but that's dangerous; trust me. They can slip off easily and stab you in the hand. Not fun.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ4ptn6arzaAnpK2bG23CzN_D5cbPJs9U-N58MGpq9IfpmxuP2yHkh3juhKNrOVIT0TK15lRkIC5olaFdSMJCVkMdNiVQR0Frx34mNV-U1DOwO9najjVV-lSJMY0tQ_ZDyF7K2xB088oY/s1600/checker+insides.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ4ptn6arzaAnpK2bG23CzN_D5cbPJs9U-N58MGpq9IfpmxuP2yHkh3juhKNrOVIT0TK15lRkIC5olaFdSMJCVkMdNiVQR0Frx34mNV-U1DOwO9najjVV-lSJMY0tQ_ZDyF7K2xB088oY/s1600/checker+insides.jpg" /></a></div>Once you've got it opened, pop out the insides. This is what you'll see: two plastic H-shaped pieces with two rubber blocks that put pressure on them. Now those two plastic pieces are supposed to have a bump on the inside of them to fit into the grooves on the bar, but as you'll likely notice, they're flat now.<br />
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However the plastic pieces are small enough to fit into the grooves themselves. But because of the H-shape, the two pieces can't get any closer to each other. So sand them down. The picture shows which part to sand.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Qtt4whuR8HQ1Cm3qyD3TzfwdEna7vXYlF20WJH8Ts_xyIiGoYRrDO_EdGcxeY7HwksBgqM7V6WQelSL9vlFeo-fi649Z1HgiB8qmfqNwiLpTUkr-OsV9QL09U4s3PprGNrGsb2aXMiU/s1600/example+sanding+job.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Qtt4whuR8HQ1Cm3qyD3TzfwdEna7vXYlF20WJH8Ts_xyIiGoYRrDO_EdGcxeY7HwksBgqM7V6WQelSL9vlFeo-fi649Z1HgiB8qmfqNwiLpTUkr-OsV9QL09U4s3PprGNrGsb2aXMiU/s320/example+sanding+job.jpg" width="195" /></a><br />
You don't have to worry about sanding too much since you really don't want those parts touching anymore. The picture to the right will show how the pieces fit over one of the grooves after I sanded them down.<br />
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Now because we're pushing them closer together than they were before, the rubber blocks will be too small. So we need to put something else in there. I used cardboard. I cut small pieces, about the same size as the blocks. Depending on the thickness of the cardboard, you'll need to use one or two pieces on each side.<br />
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I won't lie to you: stuffing the plastic, rubber and cardboard back into the thing is the hardest part. If you're finding it hard, that means you're doing it right; it needs to be tight! A flat-head screw driver came in handy for me. Keep the casing down near the narrow end of the bar to make it easier to shove everything in.<br />
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Once you have everything in, put the plate back over top, but don't fold the tabs over yet. Slide it back and forth across the bar first, holding the plate firmly over the rubber and plastic so they don't fall out. You should find it extremely difficult to move it past the grooves. In fact, it should either take<i> all of your might</i> to do it, or if you can't move it out of the groove at all, even better. I'm serious about it taking everything you have to move it. That's important. If that's not the case for you, shove some more cardboard in there. Otherwise it'll still be too loose once you put it back on the door.<br />
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Once the tension is acceptable, fold the tabs back into place with pliers again. Now you're ready to go! Put it back in place through the inside of the door, replace the bolts, and open your door wide and watch it stay! You may want to grease up the bar again since I found that a lot of the grease came off after handling it so much. The grease will help the door slide shut when you push it shut.Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1115777441962194521.post-43965499477539557912011-07-05T21:11:00.004-04:002021-09-23T14:24:33.100-04:00How to Remove Civic Door Panel<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I needed to remove the rear door panel from my 2003 Honda Civic t</span>o <a href="https://www.gabeshacks.com/2011/07/how-to-repair-door-checker-on-civic.html">repair the door checker</a> (that's right, repair, not replace). I found there weren't many detailed instructions online on how to do this, so here goes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEn8X56AEorWURK6f7KkhivfH0WEfLuiZMHIQXK06q3ppVCYcSiBxgJ6jx4ILW7U-LmB4gLJx5CJQpQ0rPCZrmeBGULTmp8oS1S5Vmx_bT7y1ohTD7dL55QYZ82sjS0Bd69N8XQB1PVFo/s1600/arm+rest.jpg" style="float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEn8X56AEorWURK6f7KkhivfH0WEfLuiZMHIQXK06q3ppVCYcSiBxgJ6jx4ILW7U-LmB4gLJx5CJQpQ0rPCZrmeBGULTmp8oS1S5Vmx_bT7y1ohTD7dL55QYZ82sjS0Bd69N8XQB1PVFo/s200/arm+rest.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXFp9QIJlM84vMjquEqIN4xc5jbLBo6YPjXnm2g1kMqaQI-xNet9mdyv0h2Yq_Ft-_T6iZnP_MhXRMnMJXBWSv6LpoXGxuhkVP1OwtnGtYBlVEAVviyjsu6W6t6U1O24nCFaZ9XyNw0oo/s1600/door+handle.jpg" style="float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="113" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXFp9QIJlM84vMjquEqIN4xc5jbLBo6YPjXnm2g1kMqaQI-xNet9mdyv0h2Yq_Ft-_T6iZnP_MhXRMnMJXBWSv6LpoXGxuhkVP1OwtnGtYBlVEAVviyjsu6W6t6U1O24nCFaZ9XyNw0oo/s200/door+handle.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">First, there are two pieces of plastic that just pop off. One is behind the door handle, the other is on the under side of the arm rest. Just shove a flat-head screwdriver into the notch in the plastic and pry them off. The arm rest is the toughest. It'll feel like you're going to break it, but it'll come off.</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhObKC9V3LNG2-H7hOvHmpDVELYGaILC2m-ofzLbz956UwMXW5WgWwJpr3bSSjtTUx0zBQr1O3Rc1nha0F5l9e897bwZoi5RfLPu7iSa6xHZZANG92QmvU5OzS-mt6GUBjfzudOS3N8i-Q/s1600/panel+screws.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhObKC9V3LNG2-H7hOvHmpDVELYGaILC2m-ofzLbz956UwMXW5WgWwJpr3bSSjtTUx0zBQr1O3Rc1nha0F5l9e897bwZoi5RfLPu7iSa6xHZZANG92QmvU5OzS-mt6GUBjfzudOS3N8i-Q/s320/panel+screws.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Once you have those off, there will be four screws you need to take off: two behind the door handle, and two deep inside the arm rest. There are two other ones on the arm rest that do not need to come off. Well, you could take those off if you want to make more work for yourself. But you really don't need to.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQHutSdPJIBBhRrV3VaNh0KJb3-H8W4Vg7aWTMDlSOHiVHIHi-bVN6jEFuNgPIPsTsC5FZV7ZuYFDPRz6Qm-Mma8HT9N8Rafo-SXbswEPPMTxCDeQf__APHmGitzmlDr6JrM3La7v81xk/s1600/remove+door+handle.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQHutSdPJIBBhRrV3VaNh0KJb3-H8W4Vg7aWTMDlSOHiVHIHi-bVN6jEFuNgPIPsTsC5FZV7ZuYFDPRz6Qm-Mma8HT9N8Rafo-SXbswEPPMTxCDeQf__APHmGitzmlDr6JrM3La7v81xk/s320/remove+door+handle.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Before you go on to take the panel off, take off the door handle so it's not in the way. It's held on to a metal rod by a little plastic clip. Pop that off the rod by rotating it toward the outside of the car, like in the picture. Then you can slide the handle down and off the rod.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Now you can remove the panel, but not so easily. It's still held in by plastic clips every few inches around the sides and bottom. You can carefully use a flat-head screwdriver and pop those up as you go around. Or apparently, there's a tool made just for this. </span>I didn't use either method. I just yanked really hard, starting on the hinged side of the door, where I could more easily get my hands behind the panel. If you try this, don't blame me if you break anything. I didn't, but that doesn't mean you won't.<br />
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Once you get the sides and bottom free, the top will need to slide up and over the lock. And once that's loose, you'll find the wire for the window still hanging on. Just squeeze that and pull it off and the whole door panel will be free.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI1RnVuN0DS1YEAGsgB6XVPG0uO1DkEdp08wDVVc3TwJGZQ4hscN9MQ8O4Rw3rioyM5e6kdHxvwViNay-QDN1WHL56MEoQ7P-FD_t13GQjSuf87esFSpfChcbvN5cNmcHDQ9VbXApjeNQ/s1600/panel+removed.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI1RnVuN0DS1YEAGsgB6XVPG0uO1DkEdp08wDVVc3TwJGZQ4hscN9MQ8O4Rw3rioyM5e6kdHxvwViNay-QDN1WHL56MEoQ7P-FD_t13GQjSuf87esFSpfChcbvN5cNmcHDQ9VbXApjeNQ/s320/panel+removed.jpg" width="320" /></a>I found that some of the white plastic clips stayed in the door after I pulled the panel off. You can see them in the picture. If that happens to you, pull them out by hand and slide them in the spots on the panel where they came out of. They'll need to be there when you put the panel back on.<br />
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And voila! The panel is off. Now you can go on to do whatever you needed to like, say, <a href="https://www.gabeshacks.com/2011/07/how-to-repair-door-checker-on-civic.html">fix the door checker</a>.</div>Gabriel Lucihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13204663435025409308noreply@blogger.com0